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| PORTIONS EXCERPTED FROM THE "COWBOY CHRONICLE" & THE ESSENTIAL HANDBOOK OF VICTORIAN ETIQUETTE |
Background..
While I do receive inquiries regarding this
hat page on a regular basis, please understand,
it was never meant to be a detailed history
of hats or a comprehensive catalog of accepted
headgear conventions. It has been set up
primarily as a reference and commentary on
proper hat etiquette for those participating
in Cowboy Action Shooting (CAS), a competitive
shooting sport [CAS FAQ] that, in part, recreates and reenacts the
Old West period (1840's to 1900's) and the
traditions of the Victorian Era (1837 to
1901), as observed in the Western United
States.
| Commentary.. |  A group of men sporting their bowlers, courtesy of Clearwater Hats |
| This is certainly not an article dedicated to showing how odd or "quaint" Victorian citizens were. It is truly a study in respect (self respect and the respect of others), tradition and good old-fashioned "manners".. something we seem to have lost along the way (while our culture is eroding and common courtesy apparently has become too inconvenient for everyday living). | |
| I think it is important for the younger generations
to be familiar with what many now consider
to be "by-gone" traditions of civility.
If kids are going to live outside the
conventions of proper etiquette, at least
they should know they may be offending people
and/or showing disrespect and a lack of self-respect
in the process. If they are doing it out of contempt, that is fine.. it is akin to refusing to shake someone's hand when they offer it. If they are doing it out of ignorance, that reflects poorly on their upbringing and makes them look foolish, inept and uneducated. It would be like not knowing what a handshake was and recoiling or looking at someone oddly when they offered their hand because you didn't know how to respond (like a caveman would maybe?). |
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It's a matter of history..
The "tipping" or removal of a hat
is said to have originated from the same
place as the military salute. Knights would
lift the visor (face guard) on their helm,
showing their face as a sign of respect and
their empty hand as an indication they meant
no harm. This tradition evolved into the
modern military salute. Similarly, the removal
of a helm (helmet) or other headgear indoors
and as a sign of respect or reverence is
said to have originated before the Dark Ages.
This tradition was carried on throughout
the centuries by men of arms (soldiers) and
nobility, as well as their staff, servants
and slaves. After the Dark Ages, manners
and etiquette grew to become an essential
part of everyday life and the conventions
of hat etiquette became ingrained in civilized
culture.
It's a matter of culture..
Up until the late 1940's and early 1950's,
hats were worn by gentlemen, particularly
outdoors. It was considered "bad manners"
for a gentleman or a lady to be seen outdoors
without proper headgear. Pompador hair styles
and popular icon of the time, such as Tony
Curtis and Elvis Presley had a significant
impact on the decline of hat wearing in the
US. President Kennedy was the first U.S.
President to be seen outdoors without a hat
and from the 1960's on, the use of hats declined
considerably. According to the Essential
Handbook of Victorian Etiquette there are
many accepted traditions concerning proper
rituals that should be adhered to by gentlemen
while wearing a hat. In the 1800's, hat etiquette
was strictly followed and thus became second
nature to gentlemen in Victorian times. Being
that the frequent (or nearly constant) wearing
of hats is a tradition of a by-gone era,
it is important that those choosing to reenact
that era be particularly aware of the proper
rules of conduct that should be demonstrated
by the wearer.
The Rules..
There are two degrees of politeness demonstrated
by a gentleman wearing a hat:
1.Lifting or tipping it, which you generally
do for strangers.
2.Taking it off, which you generally do for
friends (or in some cases, as a sign of patriotism
or reverence).
Both are done as a sign of respect toward
the other and dignity toward oneself.
Tipping your hat is a conventional gesture,
done by barely lifting it off your head with
your right hand (or the left hand if the
right hand is occupied): By the crown of
a soft hat, or the brim of a stiff one. Your
cigarette, pipe or cigar should always be
taken out of your mouth before removing or
tipping your hat. This is a subtle gesture
that should not be confused with bowing.
A man takes off his hat outdoors (and indoors):
(1) when he is being introduced to someone,
or when saying goodbye to a woman, elder,
friend or ;
(2) as a greeting when passing someone he
knows, particularly a lady, on the street
(In some cases, tipping or lifting a hat
and bowing slightly may be used as a substitute
for removing a hat, as a passing gesture);
(3) while talking, particularly with a woman,
an older man, or a clergyman;
(4) while the National Anthem is being played,
or the American Flag is passing;
(5) at a funeral or in the presence of a
passing funeral procession,
(6) when speaking to another of a virtuous
woman or a dearly departed loved one.
A man tips or lifts his hat:
(1) when walking with a friend who passes
a woman only the friend knows;
(2) any time a lady who is a stranger thanks
you for some service or assistance;
(3) any time you excuse yourself to a woman
stranger, such as if you accidentally disturb
or jostle her in a crowd, or when you ask
for pardon when passing in a tight space
or when forced to walk between two people
that are conversing, particularly if one
is a woman;
(4) any time a stranger shows courtesy to
a woman you are accompanying, such as when
a man or woman picks up something she has
dropped, or a man opens a door for her or
gives her his seat;
(5) when you ask a woman (or an elderly man)
for directions.
Indoors, a man should always remove his hat, (particularly in a home, church, courtroom
or restaurant) except:
(1) in some public buildings or public places
such as railroad stations or post offices;
(2) in the main parlor area of a saloon or
general store;
(3) or while seated at the "lunch counter"
of a diner or cafe;
(4) in entrance halls and corridors of office
buildings, or hotels;
(5) in elevators of public or office buildings,
unless a woman is present;
(6) if carrying packages, parcels or bags
and both hands are occupied upon entry.
(7) If the man is an actor or performer and
the hat is being worn as a part of a costume
or performance.
If in doubt, it is best for a gentleman to
remove his hat indoors as soon as practical.
It is considered a sign of contempt and/or
disrespect to leave your hat on when it would
be proper to remove it. It is surprising
how many people do not remove their hats for the National Anthem
or a passing funeral procession.. a shame
really.
 ORDER IN THE COURT!As some of my readers have discovered, wearing a hat in a courtroom can land you in a world of hurt (or at least some severe inconvenience)! Leaving your hat on in court is commonly taken as an outward sign of contempt and disrespect toward the court, the judge and the proceedings that is taken very seriously by the judge and bailifs. Whether it is posted or not, do yourself a favor and take your hat off and leave it off when you are in any courtroom, any time, for any reason. Don't say you weren't warned! |
The Rules for Women..
By and large, women are generally exempt
from all of the preceeding rules, particulalrly
if their hat is fastened (pinned or clipped)
to their hair and difficult to remove easily. Therefore, women are and were allowed to
wear a hat in a church, a courtroom or at
a funeral.. prettty much anywhere a man would
not wear a hat, even today. Naturally, if a woman is dressed in men's
style clothing (jeans, slacks, etc..) and
is wearing a man's style hat or cap, it would
be considered good manners for them to remove
their hat for the National Anthem or a passing
funeral procession, but they are basically
exempt from all of the other rules and have
the option of removing their hat indoors.
During the Civil War and Old West Era (actually,
from the Dark Ages through the Turn of the
Century) hats were worn outdoors by most
everyone, particularly adults and anyone
of any means or status. Regardless of the
occasion, it would have been highly unusual
for a gentleman or lady of the Civil War
or Old West period to be seen in public without
a hat. It actually would have been considered
disgraceful and disrespectful to the host.
| The question has been posed, "What is
a man to do with his hat when he removes
it?" I have not found any rule specifying where or how the hat is to be held (except for rules governing military personnel). Common sense dictates that if it is removed and will remain off while conversing, it could be held in your "off hand", keeping one hand free to shake hands, open doors or lend a hand at stairs or steps. In cases where it is removed for the National Anthem or at a funeral (or procession), it is generally removed by the left hand and held at your side, or more often, removed by the right hand and held against your chest. |
I can tell by your hat.. you're a Cowboy!
A significant part of the sport/hobby of
CAS is appreciation for the traditions of past
generations. I hope that many of you will
find this helpful and would be grateful if
you (yes, you!) personally considered making
an effort to "set an example" while
passing on these traditions to the next generation
of cowboys... whether they wear a hat of
quality fur felt while participating in CAS
events, or wear a modern baseball cap in
their daily pursuits. Respect and good manners
are not only "the cowboy way" but,
are a part of our history and culture that
we are slowly losing!
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Yikes! He wore a size 64 hat? For those that are interested; British hat sizes are given in an imperial measurement of the diameter of the head in inches and thus men's hat sizes usually range from 6½ to 8. North American hats use the same imperial scale however (for comfort), measurements are an eighth of an inch (or as much as 1/4 inch) larger than British hats for the same size hat. European hat sizes use the metric sizing standard which is a measure of head circumference given in centimeters. Standard metric sizes for men's hats usually range from 52 - 64.
Should I wear felt or straw? I am unable to locate any hard-and-fast rules regarding seasonal hat conventions or the time of the year to switch between felt and straw hats. Everything I have found in research has shown it is a personal preference and primarily dependent on weather, comfort and more often than not, depend upon regional norms. U.S. and Canadian hat marketing in the 1940's and 1950's advised "Straw Season" was May 15th through September 15th. This is not gospel, but seems to be a reasonable time window for the warmer weather throughout most of North America. Of course, in warmer tropical locations, straw hats may be worn all year. In cooler, northern climates, felt hats may be worn all year.. so, it's really up to you! It is a given in most areas in the continental United States that white, silverbelly and straw hats are commonly worn from Memorial Day through Labor Day and black or dark brown hats are commonly worn between Labor Day and Memoral Day. In most areas, dark hats are also acceptable in the late evening where silverbelly and camel (tan) may be commonly seen in the daytime year round too, depending on the prevailing tempretaures and community norms. If you have a question about what is "right" to wear in your area, open your eyes take a look around! More On Hats.. no, not Moron Hats! Tips on the care and maintenance of your quality hat from The Hat Store at www.thehatstore.com. For more great hat information including traditions, laws, slang, humor and more, go to www.villagehatshop.com/hat_facts.html Another great resource is the HAT FAQ at www.Hatmonger.com This particular webpage was inspired (in part) by "The Gentlemen's Page", a collection of articles, antique photos and interesting quotes from the Victorian Period regarding proper behavior (including deportment, greetings, vices, etc..), attire and many other great resources on Victorian life and traditions. |
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Students.. Since I have been asked for this bibliographical reference information three times now, here it is for all of you hard working students out there.. Using the standard MLA format for referencing an Internet (www) web site resource: Howard, Mark. Hat Etiquette. Barbary Coast Vigilance Committee. 02 January 2006 <http://www.bcvc.net/hats/>. And, using the standard APA format for referencing electronic media and URL content: Howard, M.L. (2006). Hat Etiquette: Evil Swede's guide to proper hat etiquette. Retrieved on [insert today's date], from the Barbary Coast Vigilance Committee Web site: http://www.bcvc.net/hats/ Please note, all information contained on this web page has been "fact-checked" using at least three recognized resources, including but not limited to; The Cowboy Chronicle (a publication of the Single Action Shooting Society), The Essential Handbook of Victorian Etiquette (by Thomas Hill and William Yenne, revised edition, published in 1994), Town and Country's Social Graces: The Thinking Person's Guide to Manners in a Changing Society (by Jim Brosseau, published in 2002), Etiquette: The Blue Book of Social Usage (by Emily Post, published in 1945), Domestic Manners of the Americans (by Frances Trollope, published in 1832) and The Complete Book of Etiquette (by Amy Vanderbilt, revised edition, published in 1995). There are also many great resources found on web sites dedicated to haberdashery and Victorian rituals, etiquette and traditions. A comprehensive bibliography on Victorian Etiquette can be found at: http://www.lahacal.org/mannerbib.html |
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